John stern



Pandsept. 9,1919.

NVENTR Jb/z Qmw,

TRNEY JOHN STERN, 0F NEW YORK, N. Y.

UNDERWAIST.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 9, 1919.

Application filed September 21, 1916, Serial No. 121,364,

To all whom t may concern.' j j Be it known that I, JOHN STERN, a citi zen of the United States, residing in the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Underwaists, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to an article of ap` parel and particularly relates to a cliilds underwaist ofthe type wherein the arm-` hole section is doubled to provide reinforced sides extending from the shoulder to the waist portion of the garment.` j

Such articles are at present constructed in .h large numbers and in `order to place` them on the market at the lowest possible price it is necessary to minimize both in material and in the area reinforced and to reduce the necessary operations to the least possible number that will permit `the construction of a salable garment and at the same time pref j serve a fit to the same. j i Accordingly, one of the objects of the invention is to provide an article of the class described which can be formed of the leastv possible amount of material'and with the minimum amount of labor.

Practically all of the strainupon articles of this character is on the sides and it has j been a desidcratum to transmit these strains to the shoulders and to also transmit the same over as broad an area as possible, taking into consideration the economy in use i of material. A

T have found, however, that when the double sided waist is made of light material, strains on the waist-line has the effect of pulling on the sides of the waist, distorting the same and forming a puckered article which seriously affects its salable quality; This stretching` and distorting of the sides, however, can be effectively prevented merely by incorporating a separate insert strip, in the seams, which fastens the reinforcing piece to the main portion of the garment and extending this strip from the waist portion to the shoulder portion of the garment.

Various other objects and advantages of the invention will be in part obvious from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and in part will be more fully set forth in the following particular description of one form of underwaist embodying my invention, and the invention also consists in cerand combination of parts hereinafter set forth andclaimed. j j j Referringto the accompanying drawings: Figure 1` isa plan view showingv a preferred embodiment of my invention and with parts broken away to show internal construction of the reinforced seams; and Fig.` 2 is an enlarged transverse sectional View taken substantially on the line 2-2 of Fig 1. j.

The underwaist illustrated includes three maintportions, a central `back portion 5, oppositefside edges and 7 olf which are cutaway to` form parts of the arm holes 8, and

`to form extensions providing for side p0r-` to form the arm holes 8, all as is usual with devices of thischaracter. A seam 141 connects the shoulder ortions 1() and 12 and a seam 1:5 connects tlie side portions 9 and 13 and these forms of seam may be any conven tional character` of sewing now in general use in devices of this character. the double portion of each arm hole section, a reinforcing piece 16 is provided with an opening 1'( registering with the correlated armhole formed in the main portions and tending to reinforce the portions of the waist above the arm holes. As is usual With devices of this character, the reinforcing To forni j piece extends downwardly usually7 `to the bottoni of the garment and across the waistline 18 to reinforce the sides below the arm holes. The reinforcing piece extends over the shoulder portion and may be fastened at the top by means of the seam 14. This reinforcing piece may be made, if desired, of two pieces to insure a better t with some types of underwaists and in this case the seam 15 may be utilized also to fasten the two parts of the piece together below the arm holes. The outer edge 19 of the reinforcing piece isfastened to the adjacent portion of the back or front portion by means of a line of sewing 20. This line of sewing may be in the form of a filled seam extending from the waist-line to the shoulder portion. The construction thus far de- Y scribed resembles a 131.91171@ Qlln 0f garment 11,9

. but in this case thel seam 20 includes an insert 21. This strip may be a single layer but in order to provide an additional rein` forcement without materially increasing the thickness of the seam, the strip in the device illustrated is shown to be bent back upon itself longitudinally so as to provide a dou.- ble thickness to the reinforcing insert. n

It is understood that by means of a device of this character it is possible to attain in` an underwaist all ofthe reinforcements incidental to the double thickness Aof Waist at the shoulder portions and beneath the arm holes, Vand at vthe same time, to provide an additional reinforcement along the lines where such a reinforcement is most needed; that is, from the waist-line to thevshoulder line and spaced en opposite sides of the arm holes.

By using merely 'the small insert strip a material saving is lprovided in the elimination of eXtra material for the portion of the waist beneath the arm holes and a construction is provided which will not pucker and which -will hold rigidly even when subjected to lsome material pull between the waist-line and the shoulder portion. The small amount of material to form the insert necessitates but a small additional i amount of material, but this small amount is advantageously 'disposed ata place where the greatestresistance ,of strain 1s desired andas a yseam is Vat Vthis place anyhow, the

insert does not detract from the appearance v of the article. As the insert is spread out ent below the arm holes. Y4o

overV the shoulderv no discomfort is noted from its use and as the article is sold it is notr even apparent that these seams are any different from other seams such as are pres- It is noted that by this construction there is provided not only the usual double thickness of material beneath the arm holes but three and even four thicknesses of material are provided along the line of the reinforcement and this is attained with the addition of a negligible amount of additional material.

Having described my invention, I claim:

An underwaist including a main portion formed at one side of a back portion and a front portion cut away at their meeting edges to form an arm hole with a shoulder portion above the arm hole and a waist line elow the arm hole, means for transmitting strains on the waist line directly to the shoulder portion, said means including a reinforcing piece extending from the waist line to the shoulder portion and adapted to reinforce the main portion about the arm hole, one edge of said reinforcing piece being fastened to the main portion by means of a iiat seam, an insert positioned between the main portion and the reinforcing piece and extending from the waist line to the shoulder portion, said insert having one edge bent back upon itself whereby a double thickness of the insert will extend from the waist line to the shoulder portion to transmit strains along said double thickness, said double thick portion of the insert being concealed in said seam and said insert provided with a single thickness extending laterally from the double thick portion thereby to provide some material width to the insertJ for distributing the strains on the Waist line over a relatively broad area.

Signed at New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, this 18 day of September, A. D. 1916.

JOHN STERN.

copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

' Washington, D. C. 

